Help & Advice

A green pool means algae is present. This is caused by a combination of low chlorine, poor filtration, and algae "food" (like phosphates).

The 3-Step Solution:

1. FIX YOUR WATER: Balance your pH (to 7.2) and Alkalinity first. Then, "shock" the pool with a very large dose of liquid chlorine to kill the algae.
2. FILTER 24/7: Run your pump 24/7. The chlorine kills the algae, but the *filter* removes the dead algae. You must backwash/clean your filter *every single day* until the water is clear.
3. TREAT THE CAUSE: Check your Phosphate levels. If they are high, the algae will keep coming back. Also, check your CYA (Stabiliser) level.

Expert Tip: This process can be slow and expensive. Our Green Pool Rescue service uses commercial-grade flocculants to drop all dead algae to the floor for a "vacuum-to-waste," clearing the pool in 24-48 hours. If you're overwhelmed, call us.

Pumps make different noises for different problems. Listen closely:

• A loud, high-pitched screeching or grinding: This is the most common and most serious. It means the motor's main bearings are worn out. The pump needs to be repaired or, more likely, replaced. Turn it off to prevent further damage.
• A low rumbling or "gargling" noise: This is "cavitation," and it means the pump is starving for water. You have a blockage. Check that your water level is high enough, empty your skimmer and pump baskets, and check that all valves are open.
• A loud humming, but the pump won't start: This is often a failed capacitor. It's a simple repair for a professional.

If you hear any screeching or grinding, contact us for a diagnosis. Running a pump with bad bearings can lead to total failure.

These error lights are the two most common issues:

"No Flow": The chlorinator's sensor isn't detecting enough water flow. This is a safety feature.

• First, check your pump. Is it on? Is the filter dirty (high pressure)? Are the baskets full? A "No Flow" light is often a symptom of a filtration problem (see "My Pump is Loud" above).
• If the pump is fine, the flow sensor itself may be dirty or broken.

"Low Salt": This means the salt level in your pool is too low for the cell to produce chlorine.

• First, visually inspect your salt cell (the plates inside the housing). If it's covered in white calcium buildup, it's "calcified" and can't read the salt properly. It needs to be removed and cleaned in a mild acid solution.
• If the cell is clean, your water *actually* needs salt. Get your water professionally tested, and then add salt as required.

The fix depends on the type of cleaner you have:

For Suction Cleaners (e.g., Kreepy Krauly):

1. Check for suction. Pull the hose from the skimmer box. Is it sucking? If not, your pump is off or has a blockage.
2. Check for blockages. Check the entire hose, length by length, for a stuck gum nut or leaf.
3. Check the "diaphragm" or "gears." This is the moving part inside the cleaner's head. They are a wearable part and often split or break, which stops all movement.

For Robotic Cleaners (e.g., Dolphin):

1. Check the power. Is the control box on? Is the plug secure?
2. Check the filter bag/basket. If the internal bag is completely full, the cleaner will stop moving to prevent damage. Empty it.
3. Check for blockages. Turn the cleaner over and check the impellor (the small propellor). A small leaf or twig can jam it, stopping the cleaner.

If you've checked these and it's still stuck, book a cleaner repair service.

Cloudy water is almost always a sign of one of two problems: **poor filtration** or **a chemical imbalance**.

• Filtration: Your filter might be dirty or broken. If you have a sand filter, it may need a deep-cleanse or new media. If you have a cartridge filter, it may need to be cleaned or replaced.
• Chemicals: Your chlorine level might be too low, your pH might be too high (above 7.8), or your Total Alkalinity might be out of range.

First step: Test your water and backwash/clean your filter. If it's still cloudy 24 hours later, contact us for a professional diagnosis.

This depends on your filter's pressure gauge. When you first install a clean filter, note the "clean" pressure (e.g., 8-10 PSI). You only need to backwash when the pressure rises **8-10 PSI above** that clean starting point.

Over-backwashing is a common mistake; it wastes water and makes your filter *less* efficient, as a slightly dirty filter captures finer particles. For most WA pools, backwashing once every 4-6 weeks during the swim season is typical.

This is a great question. In Perth, you can lose 6-8mm of water *per day* to evaporation in summer. To check for a leak, perform a **"Bucket Test"**:

1. Place a large, heavy bucket on a pool step.
2. Fill the bucket with pool water to match the pool's water level.
3. Turn off the pump and any auto-fill devices.
4. Leave it for 24 hours.

Result: If the water level in the pool dropped *more* than the water level in the bucket, you likely have a leak. If they dropped by the same amount, it's just evaporation. If you suspect a leak, call us immediately for a professional leak detection service.

A salt pool uses regular sodium chloride (salt) to generate chlorine. A mineral pool uses a blend of minerals, primarily magnesium chloride, which feels much softer on the skin and eyes and has additional health benefits. We can convert any salt pool to a mineral system.

The biggest advantage of a variable-speed pump (VSP) is that you can run it 24/7 on a very low, quiet, and energy-efficient speed. This provides superior filtration for a fraction of the cost of running an old single-speed pump for 8 hours.

As a general rule for WA pools, we recommend a 24-hour cycle on low speed (around 1200-1500 RPM) to turn your water over 1-2 times, with a short 2-hour burst at a higher speed for cleaning or heating.

While traditional suction cleaners (like a Kreepy Krauly) are good, a robotic cleaner is a major upgrade. It's an independent, "plug-and-play" unit that runs on its own power, actively scrubs your pool's floor and walls, and traps debris in its own internal filter bag. This reduces the strain on your pool's main filter, saves you time on manual vacuuming, and results in a much cleaner pool.

Getting your pool "swim-ready" after winter is simple. Here is the 5-step checklist we use for all our clients:

1. Clean Your Filter: This is the #1 step. Give your filter a deep-cleanse. For cartridge filters, this means a proper soak and hose-down. For sand filters, a long backwash and a chemical "de-gunker" treatment.
2. Check Your Salt Cell: Your chlorinator's cell has likely built up calcium over winter. Remove it and give it a gentle acid bath (or book us to do it) to ensure it can produce chlorine efficiently.
3. Test Your Stabiliser (CYA): Cyanuric Acid (CYA), or stabiliser, is your chlorine's "sunscreen." Without it, the harsh WA sun will burn off your chlorine in hours. Bring a water sample to a pool shop (or have us test it) and make sure your CYA level is between 30-50 ppm.
4. Balance Your Water: Get your pH, Alkalinity, and Salt levels correct *before* you turn the chlorinator output up.
5. Check Equipment: Clear out all baskets, check o-rings for cracks, and run your pump to check for any new, loud noises.

In WA, our winters are mild, so we don't need to "close" our pools like in colder climates. We just "turn them down."

• Step 1: Get It Clean: Before you reduce any settings, give the pool one last, thorough clean. Vacuum the floor, brush the walls, and give your filter a full backwash/clean.
• Step 2: Balance Your Water: Get your pH, Alkalinity, and Chlorine levels perfect. This is crucial for preventing algae.
• Step 3: Add an Algaecide: Add a long-life, copper-free winter algaecide. This will work for months to prevent algae growth.
• Step 4: Reduce Runtimes: Drop your pump's runtime from 8 hours/day to 3-4 hours/day (or from 24/7 on a VSP to 12 hours on low).
• Step 5: Reduce Chlorinator Output: Lower your chlorinator's output (e.g., from 70% to 30%) to match the reduced runtime and lower demand.
• Step 6: Use a Pool Cover: The best winter tool. A good cover will keep all the leaves and debris out, meaning your pool will be almost perfect when you open it in spring.